New Chef on the Block

Specialities:

New chef on the block

-BY KRISTINE NICKEL / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK SICKLES

When Justin Fields arrived in December, 2008 to take over the chef partner reins at Roy s, the last thing on his mind was meeting new colleagues in Sarasota. I like being part of the community of chefs. The camaraderie is great, said Fields with a grin. But, in the middle of the busiest part of our season, I hardly had time to sleep, and I m sure

that was the same for all the other chefs in town.

In addition to being in the midst of tourist season, the other phenomenon on the table was the economic slowdown. Everyone has put in an incredible amount of extra hours strategizing onhowto add more value and create promotions that are affordable and offer a reason to go out at night, said Fields. So, by the time we hit July, I knew I had to

get this little cooking group and dinner together.

The cooking group was composed of Fields and a trio of Sarasota s most talented chefs and one of its finest chocolatiers,whobrought their expertise to Roy s for one special Chef Partner Wine Dinner in mid-August. It was a celebration to welcome the new guy on the block, while demonstrating justhowsophisticated Sarasota s block has become.

And, to watch the five work side-by-side in Roy s open kitchen, it seemed as if they had been cooking together for longer than a few hours.

Derek Barnes, of Derek s Culinary Casual, started the prix-fixe dinner by preparing an inspired amuse bouche, Kona Kampachi Tartare with Cucumber Sorbet, Watermelon Gelée, and a Black Olive Caramel. This was a dish that demonstrates why Barnes was a James Beard finalist this year. Paired with a Domaine St. Michelle Blanc de Blancs sparkler,

the sorbet soared with its cool refreshment, while the black olive caramel tasted fabulously rich and viscous.

Dylan Elhajoui, of MoZaic restaurant, drew the appetizer dish and created a Poached Foie Gras Terrine paired with a Rhubarb-Crème Fraiche Tart with a Retite Cress Salad and Verjus Strawberry Essence. The soft mouth feel of the foie gras was a wonderful foil for the tartness of rhubarb and pulpy texture of strawberry with an accentuating star fruit. The wine selected to complement this dish was Tormaresca Vermentino, a fabulous Italian white.

The fish entrée, Chilean Sea Bass with Minted Pea Maine Lobster Raviolini and Carrot Ginger Fumet, gave Fields an opportunity to shine. The sea bass was cooked perfectly and released a wonderful smile-in-your-mouth sweetness. The small pastas, with their jolt of mint, as well as the ginger in the carrot fumet, kept the plate from being too sweet. Erath Pinot Gris, a sturdy Oregonian white, worked well with the fish.

Chef Paul Mattison of Mattison s Restaurants prepared the meat entrée, Braised Short Rib with a Citrus Ponzu BBQ and Steamed Bok Choy. The aromas from the short ribs wafted across the restaurant, filling everyone with anticipation for this hearty, yet sophisticated entrée. Paired with an Erath Pinot Noir,mythoughts quickly turned to autumn and eagerness for cool-weather food. The soft, berry-fruit taste of the pinot noir was an ideal partner for the short ribs.

The evening was topped with a chocolate concoction of crème puffs and ice

cream with hints of rich chocolate prepared by chocolatier Carol Sirard of Sirard s

Chocolate House. The cup of Kona coffee was a welcome finale. Chef Dylan Elhajoui of MoZaic Restaurant.

Carol Sirard of Sirard s Chocolate House prepared a sweet dessert.

Chilean Sea Bass with Minted Pea Maine Lobster Raviolini and Carrot Ginger Fumet

Prepared by Justin Fields, Roy s

Serves 6

Ingredients

1 pound Chilean sea bass filet, skin off

1/4 cup clarified butter

Salt and pepper to taste

Heirloom micro mixed carrots

Micro red onion

White Hon Shimeji mushrooms

Method

Cut the sea bass into six

2-1/2-ounce portions. Season with salt and black pepper. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add clarified butter. Start searing the filets, flesh-side down. Sear for 2 minutes or until golden brown. Turn over and cook another 2 minutes, then remove from heat and place in center of serving bowl. Drop raviolini into boiling water and cook for 2-1/2 to 3 minutes. Remove and place in serving bowl. Blanch micro carrots and onion and place around fish. Lightly saute the white Shimeji mushrooms over low heat with clarified butter, being sure not to brown. Place mushrooms with other vegetables. Pour about 2 ounces of hot carrot ginger fumet in serving bowl. Garnish with your favorite herb.

Maine Lobster Raviolini Filling

Ingredients

1 pound Maine lobster (per person)

4 ounces 90-110 shrimp

1 small shallot, minced

1/4 cup white wine

1 teaspoon fresh Yuzu zest

1/4 pound unsalted butter

1 teaspoon chopped chives

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt and pepper to taste

Method

Place shallots and white wine into sauce pan. Cook on medium heat until wine has cooked off.

Place into pan and cool completely. Take the fresh lobster and separate claws and tails from body. Remove the inside meat (tamale) and rinse the shell. This will be used for the sauce. Steam lobster claws for 2 minutes. Place in ice bath immediately. Steam the tail for 2-3 minutes. Place in ice bath immediately. After the lobster has cooled, remove from the shell (save the shells for the fumet). Clean and devein shrimp. Puree in food processor. Take half of the claws and puree in food processor. Small-dice lobster tails and joint meat. In mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. Mix by hand, seasoning with salt and pepper. Roll two ravioli up and place in boiling water (cook time: 3-4 minutes). Adjust seasoning.

Minted Pea Pasta

Ingredients

2-1/2 cups Italian Double Zero flour

1 cup semolina flour

3/4 cup sweet pea powder

2 cups spinach

1/4 cup mint leaves

3/4 cup water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 large egg yolks

Method

Blanch and ice down spinach and mint. Strain away excess liquid and puree the two with 3/4 cup water. Set aside. Place all dry ingredients into a food processor and use your hands to dig a shallow crater. Pour spinach/mint puree, egg yolks and olive oil into crater. Use the dough

hook, on medium, to mix ingredients. Mix until a round, clean ball forms. Do not over mix. Lightly add additional flour and/or water as necessary to form a clean ball of dough. Remove pasta ball and split into two rounds. Wrap with Saran wrap and let dough rest for 15 to 30

minutes. Begin rolling pasta on level 1 of pasta machine. Run through each level, through level 6. Dust with flour and semolina to keep dough workable. Once rolled, measure out 2 1/4-inch by 2 1/4-inch squares. Fill each square with about 1 ounce of lobster filling. Pull up all sides

and pinch the bundle at the bottom, forming sphere-shaped raviolini. Bundles should take the shape of large, fresh peas.

Carrot Ginger Fumet

Ingredients

4 cups cold water

4 large carrots, rough chopped

4 ounces ginger root, sliced

1 stalk lemongrass, smashed and

roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, smashed

3 scallions, rough chopped

Lobster shell (body) from raviolini

filling recipe

2 tablespoons Hon Dashi

1 3-inch by 3-inch square of Kombu

seaweed

Fish sauce, to taste

Method

Place chopped carrots in blender with 3 cups of water. Blend thecarrots until very fine, almost

pureed. In a large pot, place the lobster body left over from making the ravioli filling. Pour in carrot puree with remaining cup of water. Place all remaining vegetables in a piece of cheese

cloth and tie with butcher s twine. Place bundle in the pot with the carrot and lobster mixture. Add the Dashi and Kombu, bringing the mixture to a boil. Lower to simmer for 30 minutes.

Remove lobster shells, Kombu and cheese cloth bundle and strain the fumet through a fine mesh chinois. Reserve Kombu. Place the carrot pulp reserved from straining in a blender with 1

cup of the fumet. Blend the pulp until it is pureed and add back into the fumet. You should achieve a rich orange color and carrot flavor. Adjust flavor with fish sauce and place the Kombu back in the finished sauce.

Braised Short Ribs with Yuzu Citrus Barbecue

Chef Paul Mattison, Mattison s

Serves four

Ingredients

12 trimmed short ribs

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup chopped onions

1/4 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup chopped carrots

1 teaspoon garlic

1/4 cup tomatoes, seeded and diced

3 ounces red wine

16 ounces veal broth

1 bay leaf

1/2 bunch fresh parsley, chopped

1 ounce shallots

1 lemon/lime/orange zest

1 ounce Yuzu juice

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons wildflower honey

1/2 teaspoon dried hibiscus flowers

1/2 ounce chopped cilantro

1/2 of the braising liquid

Method

Season ribs and dust with flour. Pan sear in olive oil. Add onions, celery, carrots and garlic and saute. Add tomatoes and wine, reducing. Add veal stock, parsley and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and braise at 325 degrees for 1 to 2 hours, turning the ribs often. Strain and reduce braising liquid. Finish with herbs, citrus zest, yuzu, mustard, cilantro, hibiscus, honey and brown sugar. Slather ribs and sear on grill or in a hot oven. Slather again.